Interview with Reg
Questions and Answers with Reg Oliver about Pinot Noir
Napa Valley Wine Library, Summer 2001
Reg Oliver is the winemaker owner of El Molino winery. After a Wall Street career, he started restoring El Molino, which was founded in 1871. He began making home wine in 1981 and the first commercial release was the 1987 Pinot Noir. The winery has gradually expanded production to 2000 cases, divided evenly between Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Reg Oliver is the winemaker owner of El Molino winery. After a Wall Street career, he started restoring El Molino, which was founded in 1871. He began making home wine in 1981 and the first commercial release was the 1987 Pinot Noir. The winery has gradually expanded production to 2000 cases, divided evenly between Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Where do you grow your Pinot Noir grapes?
The majority of our Pinot Noir grapes are grown in Rutherford. We have a small Pinot Noir vineyard a t the winery, which is 3 miles north of St. Helena.
How do you grow Pinot Noir? Any distinguishing or differentiating comments about its viticulture?
The rootstock ranges from 5-C to 420-A and we farm a variety of the leading clones and field selections of Pinot Noir. Our rows run close to east-west and we favor a vertical trellis system with spacing ranging from 3x6 to 6x8. Our vineyard practices emphasize organic farming. Pinot noir is a vigorous growing variety and unless special attention is paid to viticulture, the end result can vary greatly. It can easily overcrop and produce a lighter wine. Popular opinion considers Pinot Noir a variety that does best in cooler climates, but some of the best examples come from warmer years in a cooler region. On a world scale Carneros is a warm area, and temperatures are similar to what we find in our Rutherford vineyard.
Anything distinctive about how you harvest Pinot Noir?
We harvest the grapes by hand over a several week period, keeping each clone separate.
Winemaking differentiations?
The Pinot Noir grapes receive minimal handling at the winery. We ferment the grapes in 1.5 ton open-top stainless steel fermenters. Over 75% of the grapes are fermented on the stem or whole cluster and no yeast is added. Fermentation starts slowly and the must is pressed in a small basket press within 10-12 days. The wine goes through malolactic fermentation naturally in the barrel and is racked once in the following spring.
Any comments about what kind of barrel Pinot Noir prefers?
We use exclusively French oak barrels and 75% are new each year. The wine is held in the barrel 18 months before bottling and another year in the bottle before release. Each vintage we fine with one estate egg white per barrel and the wines are lightly filtered.
Any comments about aging and Pinot Noir’s lifespan?
The wines are lovely when young and will age for 10-20 years. Pinot Noir is one of the most versatile red wine varieties, complementing fish, fowl, or red meat.
Describe Pinot Noir’s ideal characteristics:
Color: Ruby red or magenta with purple hues. Natural color is important and the color should not be enhanced by the addition of another variety or by removing juice (saignee) to increase the ratio of skins to juice.
Aroma: Should be of fresh fruit and not necessarily barnyard-like. We look for spice, toasty oak, and a variety of stone fruits.
Palate: Smooth, sweet, rich fruit flavors with light tannin and mild acidity.
Finish: Pinot Noir presents complex flavors that should explode as they coast your mouth, leaving a lingering finish. The alcohol level should be subdued.
Do you feel Pinot Noir is generally misunderstood?
Pinot Noir is one of the most misunderstood varieties. It does well in warm climates, crop yield does not have to be unnecessarily small, and it is easy to produce consistent quality with proper viticulture and cellar practices. Pinot Noir ages well and delicious examples are found in many regions.
When Americans make a Pinot Noir, how is it different from it European counterparts?
American Pinot Noirs tend to exhibit richer fruit, less acidity, and higher alcohol. The best Pinot Noirs closely resemble those of the top producers in a good year in Burgundy. Pinot noir is one of the fastest growing varieties as more producers are adding the variety because of its broad appeal. It is excellent with a wide range of foods and pleasant alone.
Napa Valley loyalty aside, what area in the world is the most climactically suited for Pinot Noir?
Other regions that produce top Pinot Noirs include the Russian River Valley, Monterey, Santa Barbara, Oregon and Burgundy.
Your favorite bottle and vintage of Pinot Noir?
Clos de Tart 1978
The majority of our Pinot Noir grapes are grown in Rutherford. We have a small Pinot Noir vineyard a t the winery, which is 3 miles north of St. Helena.
How do you grow Pinot Noir? Any distinguishing or differentiating comments about its viticulture?
The rootstock ranges from 5-C to 420-A and we farm a variety of the leading clones and field selections of Pinot Noir. Our rows run close to east-west and we favor a vertical trellis system with spacing ranging from 3x6 to 6x8. Our vineyard practices emphasize organic farming. Pinot noir is a vigorous growing variety and unless special attention is paid to viticulture, the end result can vary greatly. It can easily overcrop and produce a lighter wine. Popular opinion considers Pinot Noir a variety that does best in cooler climates, but some of the best examples come from warmer years in a cooler region. On a world scale Carneros is a warm area, and temperatures are similar to what we find in our Rutherford vineyard.
Anything distinctive about how you harvest Pinot Noir?
We harvest the grapes by hand over a several week period, keeping each clone separate.
Winemaking differentiations?
The Pinot Noir grapes receive minimal handling at the winery. We ferment the grapes in 1.5 ton open-top stainless steel fermenters. Over 75% of the grapes are fermented on the stem or whole cluster and no yeast is added. Fermentation starts slowly and the must is pressed in a small basket press within 10-12 days. The wine goes through malolactic fermentation naturally in the barrel and is racked once in the following spring.
Any comments about what kind of barrel Pinot Noir prefers?
We use exclusively French oak barrels and 75% are new each year. The wine is held in the barrel 18 months before bottling and another year in the bottle before release. Each vintage we fine with one estate egg white per barrel and the wines are lightly filtered.
Any comments about aging and Pinot Noir’s lifespan?
The wines are lovely when young and will age for 10-20 years. Pinot Noir is one of the most versatile red wine varieties, complementing fish, fowl, or red meat.
Describe Pinot Noir’s ideal characteristics:
Color: Ruby red or magenta with purple hues. Natural color is important and the color should not be enhanced by the addition of another variety or by removing juice (saignee) to increase the ratio of skins to juice.
Aroma: Should be of fresh fruit and not necessarily barnyard-like. We look for spice, toasty oak, and a variety of stone fruits.
Palate: Smooth, sweet, rich fruit flavors with light tannin and mild acidity.
Finish: Pinot Noir presents complex flavors that should explode as they coast your mouth, leaving a lingering finish. The alcohol level should be subdued.
Do you feel Pinot Noir is generally misunderstood?
Pinot Noir is one of the most misunderstood varieties. It does well in warm climates, crop yield does not have to be unnecessarily small, and it is easy to produce consistent quality with proper viticulture and cellar practices. Pinot Noir ages well and delicious examples are found in many regions.
When Americans make a Pinot Noir, how is it different from it European counterparts?
American Pinot Noirs tend to exhibit richer fruit, less acidity, and higher alcohol. The best Pinot Noirs closely resemble those of the top producers in a good year in Burgundy. Pinot noir is one of the fastest growing varieties as more producers are adding the variety because of its broad appeal. It is excellent with a wide range of foods and pleasant alone.
Napa Valley loyalty aside, what area in the world is the most climactically suited for Pinot Noir?
Other regions that produce top Pinot Noirs include the Russian River Valley, Monterey, Santa Barbara, Oregon and Burgundy.
Your favorite bottle and vintage of Pinot Noir?
Clos de Tart 1978
