There's little going on for the nose, but take a sip and the fruit presence begins to make itself known. The wine is so tight it feels like stones rolling around in the mouth, smooth, savory stones that press out a collage of flavor - Butter, Thai basil, smoked pork - all light and ethereal, hovering above. It's complex, lasting and should age with grace.

2000 El Molino Chardonnay, Rutherford Napa Valley($39.75) Medium-light golden yellow; attractive, buttery, tasty, ripe pear and tropical fruit aroma with notes of hazelnut and vanilla; full-body; firmly structured, herbal, buttery, green apple flavors with a rounded mouth-feel; lingering aftertaste. Very highly recommended.