Fragrant floral and citrus blossom scents lead to a firm, tightly focused wine brimming with rich, ripe lemon, green apple, tart pear and spicy flavor subtleties, finishing with a burst of fruit driven by lively acidity. Drink now through 2009. 840 cases made .-J.L. 6-15-04

Once again, El Molino delivers a very fine Chardonnay filled with ripe and refined fruit and enriched by a dollop of creamy, slightly toasty oak. It is fairly full in body yet never heavy, and its flavors pick up a hint of spice to go with stony and appley notes. Long in the finish, it earns points for balance and continuity, and it is a fine choice to accompany mid-density fish like snapper or sea bass napped with buerre blanc .