Big, Broad, ripe and simply loaded with very rich oak, the expressive aromas of this impressively stuffed youngster are mirrored in character by the wine’s equally rich, apple-pie-like and crème brulee flavors. Fairly full and slightly oily in feel, this is every bit the powerhouse chardonnay, and it displays little in the way of either grace or elegance for the moment. It shows a bit of heat pushing through at the finish, but it has fruit and extract to spare even at the end, and service with the richer foods that it demands will make its minor coarseness moot. Expect two to four years of improvement in bottle for this one.

Refreshingly ripe, rich and elegant, with pretty pear, hazelnut, fig, melon, citrus and apricot flavors. Finishes with a long, intricate aftertaste that keeps pushing out new flavors. Drink now through 2005. 850cases made. – J.L.