Think of Gevrey on steroids, pinot on a power trip. This wine grows in a stretch of Rutherford that winemaker Reg Oliver compares to Carneros in terms of climate and exposure. Its mass may also come from the fermentation regimen: 75% whole cluster, wild yeast and cold. For now, it's substantial and youthfully hardened by its oak, yet it doesn't skimp on length, or on more delicate aspects that brings lavender and violet tones to the fruit. There's a black cherry succulence at the core, gripped by tannins then released in the end as a raspberry push. Age it for calmer days ahead, or thrive on its power right now with grilled portobello mushrooms or veal marsala.

Plump, ripe and rich in tone, the aromas are redolent of spring flowers, sweet cherries and caramelized vanilla scents, and the velvety texture that greets the palate reiterates the notion of high-quality Pinot. The wine is medium-full in weight and generous in its varietal fruit flavors and carries through to a long, sustained, noticeably hot but still juicy finish. It should hold well in bottle and can easily last a decade.